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Japan. Michael, welcome to Japan, a
railway paradise.

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Its huge population spread over long
islands live by its railway.

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It's like I'm driving.

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My new adventure takes me through the
land that launched the high -speed

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I love Shinkansen.

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Where millions of journeys are made each
day through some of the most bustling

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stations on Earth.

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Busy city.

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I'll ride Japan's vast railway network.

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To uncover a land of bold innovation.

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Haven't quite got the hang of it yet.

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A place of enduring tradition, volatile
geology and remarkable people. Join

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me on an excursion like no other. I'm
too excited to sit down.

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I'm travelling by rail across Kyushu,
the southernmost of Japan's main

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To continue my journey, I've returned to
Kagoshima Chuo Station, the southern

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terminus of the island's high -speed
rail network.

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Always exciting to see a Shinkansen,
that long jet -star nose designed to

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up the wall of air as it zooms into a
tunnel.

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I'll be travelling on a bullet train,
the icon of the Japanese railway, to

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explore Kyushu's fascinating history.

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Kyushu makes up about a tenth of Japan's
land mass.

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and the population is around a tenth as
well.

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I began in the south, at Kagoshima, and
I'm now exploring the western side of

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the island, whose character has long
been influenced by its location, which

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exposes it to Asia and Europe.

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I'll then travel via the western tip of
Honshu Island to end at Hiroshima.

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The revered position of Emperor of Japan
has existed for many centuries.

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But across history from time to time, it
has been largely symbolic, with true

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political power exercised by others.

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On this part of my journey, I will look
at the regime of those military rulers

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known as the Shoguns, who isolated Japan
from the outside world for two and a

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half centuries.

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and at how, at the end of that period,
with the change of government, Japan

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reopened and embraced technology from
abroad.

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There are many models of Shinkansen or
bullet train.

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And on this journey, an N700 series
zooms from Kagoshima up the West Coast.

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Japan's high -speed trains, the
Shinkansen, had been operating since

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when lines were opened into Tokyo.

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But it is a truly national project, and
now there are about 3 ,000 kilometres

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of line.

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Some of the 21st century additions
included the line down to the most

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station at Kagoshima, and it was a very
difficult project. It ran through the

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mountains. And nearly all of it is in
tunnel.

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Only very occasionally does the train
stick its long nose into the daylight.

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And for that reason, the line has been
nicknamed the Mole.

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My journey north takes just 25 minutes,
a speedy trip to a destination noted for

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its slower pace of life.

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The exit will be on the left side of the
train.

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Passengers going to Isatsu Orange
Railway, please change trains here at

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Thank you.

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I'm alighting at Izumi Station.

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The architecture and decoration draw
inspiration from the region's fame as

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the winter home for over 10 ,000 cranes.

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They migrate here each year, largely
from Siberia.

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It's also the boarding point for boats
to the Amakusa Islands, which sit off

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western coast of Kyushu.

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They're made up of two large and many
small islands.

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Celebrated for their lavish greenery and
fascinating geology, they're designated

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a geopark in recognition of their
natural beauty, local communities and

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heritage.

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I'm visiting Shimoshima, the largest
island in the Amakusa archipelago.

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Hello! Hello!

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What a wonderful welcome!

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Ladies, thank you for your welcome.
Hello.

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Oh, such beautiful costumes.

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Same colour.

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They're spectacularly dressed to perform
a traditional Amakusa Island dance with

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the Ushibuka Haya.

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The women wish the fishermen, their
husbands, lovers and sons, a safe

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Lovely, cheerful music.

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The gestures, I think, replicate
movements on a boat, boarding nets,

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pulling rope.

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All those ropes!

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All those ropes!

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It's so compelling that I can't resist
joining in.

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Situated on the outer edge of the
Japanese archipelago, these islands were

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the first port of call for foreign ships
and the gateway through which new ideas

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and influences entered Japan.

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That included Christianity.

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Today, around 2 % of the Japanese
population, roughly 3 million people,

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as Christian.

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Christianity arrived on these shores
with Portuguese missionaries in 1549,

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and hundreds of thousands were
converted.

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And the contagion that it represented
was one of the reasons why the shoguns,

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the military rulers of Japan, excluded
foreigners and banned foreign travel.

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Amazingly, in this remote place,
Christianity survived in secret.

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to rise again when the prohibition was
lifted.

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To hear about the island's Roman
Catholic heritage and the group known as

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Christians, I'm meeting Saki Urakami, an
Amakusa Island resident and guide.

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This is such a beautiful restaurant.

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The setting is amazing on the water with
the greenery beyond. Yeah, it is.

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This place is very interesting because
of the history of Christianity.

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Why do you think the Shoguns banned
Christianity?

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I think there are several reasons, but
one of them, like Shogun, he

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was the top of the society at the
moment.

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But under the Christianity, everyone is
equal.

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And so Shogun realized that Christianity
was a threat for his

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administration. And the Christians who
remained here during the ban,

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how did they behave?

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Of course, people called hidden
Christians, people

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disguised themselves as Buddhist or
Shinto believers.

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There's Shinto, like, a festival, and
they visit the Buddhist temple.

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Arigato.

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Thank you. Beautiful.

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This is spectacular, isn't it?

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Well done, Chef.

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During the time of the ban on
Christians,

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Did the other people, the Shinto and the
Buddhist, sometimes inform against

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Catholics to the authorities, to the
shoguns?

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The government order to, you know,
inform if they find some

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questions. But here, never happened.

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Nobody did. Why is that?

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Because this Saketsu village is a
fishing village.

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So once you go out to the sea, you need
to support.

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your fellow fishermen.

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There's no time to care about the
differences in the religion.

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Because people have to trust each other
for their lives.

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Tell me about the island today.

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So three religions coexist.

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Catholic Church and Shinto Shrine and
Buddhist temples.

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Wow. Quite happily living with each
other.

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Yes, of course.

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There are several hundred Christians on
these islands today.

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One is Mr Yamashita, a fisherman.

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Yamashita -san.

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I'm Michael.

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How many generations of your family have
lived in Sakitsu?

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Were they fishermen too?

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And is it dangerous?

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In your boat. I'd love to see it,
please.

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Oh, that's very beautiful.

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How old is this, do you think?

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To me, it's

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amazing to find such Catholic faith in
Japan.

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That's a surprise to me.

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Would it be possible?

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to come aboard and have a spin on your
boat.

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Thank you.

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Here is history in a postcard.

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These beautiful traditional Japanese
houses with their distinctive roofs and

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tiles. And there, a church spire that
could be from England.

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With the cross above.

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The tiny harbour village of Sakitsu is
an important centre of Christianity.

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Worshippers attend what's nicknamed the
Church on the Sea.

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It's Roman Catholic, built in 1934.

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This is a pretty church.

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And a pretty good size, too.

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And... It wouldn't look out of place in
Europe or South America. It had all

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these gothic touches, pointy arches and
things like that.

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But one thing that makes it very
Japanese is that I had to remove my

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came in.

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And here on the floor, there are tatami
mats.

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To continue my journey, I've returned to
Kyushu Island to take a train from

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Mitsumi.

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What a beautiful station, with a steeple
and a cross on the exterior, and

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beautiful Japanese modernity inside.

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From here, I'm picking up a regional
train.

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A lovely, narrow gauge, one person
operated, diesel.

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It's a 50 minute journey up the western
coast of Kyushu and with such large

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windows there are glorious views.

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A great coastal railway journey.

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My next destination will be the city of
Kumamoto.

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As the Shinkansen was extended
southward, Services began to run into

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the 12th of March 2010.

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The city used the opportunity to promote
itself and invented a new mascot called

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Kumamon. He's a wide -eyed creature with
a cuddly belly.

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The Japanese love of the cute is known
as kawaii.

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But it goes beyond innocence and
sweetness.

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It ventures into the quirky, the
rebellious.

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Even the mildly erotic, it seeps into
fashion. It affects neighbouring

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countries. A valuable and persuasive
source of Japanese influence.

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I've come to Kumamoto to see its world
-famous castle.

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But before that, I hope to glimpse its
most celebrated, emblematic creature.

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Kumamon! How lovely to see you.

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Wow. What an honour.

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Kumamon has achieved celebrity status in
Japan.

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Why are you so famous?

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Oh, for your dancing.

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You know the way to the castle?

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Yeah. Let's go.

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Sayonara!

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Bye!

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Bye, Kumamoto!

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Kumamoto is Kyushu's third largest city
with around 750 ,000 inhabitants.

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It's also steeped in history, with one
of Japan's best -known and most

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significant castles.

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In 2016, a massive earthquake caused
terrible damage to the city and the

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fortification. Restoration work costing
around £320 million is still underway.

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Hence the hard hat.

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In 1853 and 1854, United States naval
expeditions under the command of

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Perry threatened Japan with violence and
forced it to open itself to world

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trade. Forces within Japan, Notably, the
samurai Saigo Takamori from

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Satsuma toppled the shogun government in
what was known as the Meiji

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Restoration, Meiji being the name of the
emperor.

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The new administration abolished
feudalism and began to modernize Japan.

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America's gunboat diplomacy set in
motion the dramatic regime change which

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seen as the birth of modern Japan.

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To hear about that turning point and the
celebrated figure of Saigo Takamori,

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the inspiration for the hero of the
Hollywood film The Last Samurai, I'm

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Professor of History Izumi Haragun.

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I'd love to hear about this great
personality, Saigo.

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Saigo Takamori was born and bred in
Kagoshima.

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castle town.

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He came from lower samurai class but he
was very respected

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among young samurai and wise lord
Shimazu Nariakira

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selected him as secretary.

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He recommended to learn about
parliamentary system and

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constitution and educational reforms.

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He was a great modernizer. Yes, he was a
modernizer.

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He opened railway age.

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He first objected railway construction

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initially because it cost too much
money.

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But eventually he approved railway

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construction.

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00:20:08,810 --> 00:20:10,510
And you can come to...

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Kyushu by railway now.

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00:20:13,050 --> 00:20:14,050
Indeed, indeed.

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Despite being a key figure in the new
modernizing government, the rapid pace

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reform, which included the abolition of
the samurai class, proved too much for

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Saigo. He resigned his post, rallied an
army of samurai from Satsuma, and rose

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against the government in what is now
called the Satsuma Rebellion.

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In one of its defining moments, he
placed Kumamoto Castle, the principal

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stronghold of government forces, under
siege for 52 days.

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And this castle was very, very strong,
very well prepared for siege.

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Yes. It's hard to climb up.

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Yeah. Even for ninjas.

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He was defeated. After the battle, Saigo
dies.

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Yes. He died for himself.

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He killed himself.

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Soldiers cut off his head.

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On his command, on his wishes.

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Yes. How do you feel about Saigo? I love
Saigo. You love Saigo? Yes, of course.

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He was a man of strong justice and
loyalty and courage.

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A great hero, a charismatic figure.

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Yes. And a timeless figure.

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I return to Kumamoto station to take a
train heading north.

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My next stop will be the station of
Shimomuta, a journey of 17 minutes on

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high -speed line.

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On the dot, Hustle Wake.

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I'm on a Shinkansen 800 series
introduced to this line in 2004.

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I'm bound for a place with important
links to the region's samurai heritage.

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Japan's samurai warrior class became
famous all over the world for its

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and also for its very demanding code of
conduct.

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A samurai warrior would prefer death to
defeat or to surrender, and he would use

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his sharp blade to commit harakiri, to
disembowel himself.

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00:22:32,910 --> 00:22:36,970
One of the first reforms after removal
of the shoguns was to abolish the

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samurai. And you might expect that with
that, the art of making the sword, the

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katana, would also disappear, but not
so.

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There are still a few craftsmen today
working to the same high standards that

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were demanded by the samurai for whom
they once worked.

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My Shinkansen has brought me to
Shinomuta Station, which opened in 2011.

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It's the closest Shinkansen station to
Arau, an old mining center located on

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coast.

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I'm seeking out a master of Japan's
centuries -old craft of sword -making.

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The forge.

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Matsuraga -sensei. Hello.

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May I come down? Okay.

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Thank you.

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00:23:34,590 --> 00:23:39,990
Matsunaga Genrakuru has been crafting
blades for over 40 years. They're

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recognized as works of art and cultural
artifacts.

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Their manufacture is strictly regulated.

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Master, how many swords do you make?

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How long does it take you, Master, to
make a sword?

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Yes,

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your craftsmanship is a piece of the
whole jigsaw.

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00:24:21,540 --> 00:24:24,300
And where do you find the material for
this?

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00:24:38,509 --> 00:24:45,070
Once the iron sand is worked into a big
block of tamahagane, pieces are cut from

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00:24:45,070 --> 00:24:47,870
it and stacked, ready to be fired
together.

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I would never have guessed it would be
wrapped in paper.

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00:25:04,760 --> 00:25:05,760
Yes.

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The block is reheated, then hammered
with a force of 200 kilograms.

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It then folded over, reheated, hammered
and folded again, more than ten times.

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Only then is it stretched to the length
of the sword.

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00:25:35,720 --> 00:25:41,180
Matsunaga Genrokuru has made over a
thousand in his lifetime and has a

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00:25:41,180 --> 00:25:44,180
collection of old samurai armour and
weapons.

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00:25:45,020 --> 00:25:48,860
Oh, 300 -year -old sword.

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00:25:49,120 --> 00:25:52,800
Oh, and here comes the blade. My
goodness, the blade on these swords.

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00:25:56,910 --> 00:25:57,910
That's the lighting.

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00:25:58,370 --> 00:26:00,790
Oh, my goodness, I'm holding the sword.

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Look at that edge.

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Oh, my goodness.

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00:26:05,210 --> 00:26:10,410
It's quite a strange feeling to hold
something that's quite so beautiful and

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quite so dangerous.

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00:26:12,630 --> 00:26:15,730
Right, thank you. May we put it away?

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00:26:15,970 --> 00:26:17,290
There we go, Master.

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00:26:18,210 --> 00:26:23,390
Extraordinary to believe that that black
iron that I saw before creates this

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beautiful, perfect cutting steel.

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00:26:27,360 --> 00:26:33,940
Next to the forge is a dojo, a room
where Matsunaga Kenrokuro teaches

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00:26:33,940 --> 00:26:40,040
the art of samurai swordsmanship, which
includes tamashigiri, or cutting

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00:26:40,040 --> 00:26:43,180
practice, targeting a rolled tatami mat.

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00:27:17,230 --> 00:27:23,010
Alarmed by the spread of Christianity
the Shoguns were pretty successful at

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00:27:23,010 --> 00:27:25,890
excluding further foreign influences

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00:27:26,720 --> 00:27:32,900
And as a result, the heritage here is
purely Japanese, and the culture highly

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distinctive, such as the rigorous code
of conduct of the samurai.

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00:27:37,340 --> 00:27:43,680
One disadvantage of isolationism was
that Japan fell behind the West in

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prowess and technology.

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00:27:45,940 --> 00:27:52,540
And the rapid transformation of the
country, from feudalism to being a

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00:27:52,540 --> 00:27:55,140
military and industrial power...

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00:27:55,470 --> 00:28:00,110
is an amazing example of Japan's single
-mindedness.

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00:28:00,690 --> 00:28:05,090
Next time... For more than two
centuries, Nagasaki was literally the

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officially open port in Japan.

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00:28:07,810 --> 00:28:09,910
What are the conditions like? Is it hot?

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The temperature was over 35 degrees
centigrade with 95 % humidity.

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00:28:16,510 --> 00:28:18,750
Basically, like working in a sauna.

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00:28:20,090 --> 00:28:24,190
So that is a premium tea. How much would
you pay for that? Could be priced.

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between like 400 and 500 pounds a kilo.

